In January I took a trip to Helsinki, Finland. This is kind of a weird choice for someone who lives in Portland, Oregon. We’re sun-deprived by that time of year and the beaches of Hawaii and Mexico are easy flights away, so why pick a place that’s even darker and grayer than here? I had a few reasons. One is that Finland is the only Nordic country I hadn’t visited yet (excluding the Faroe Islands, which I definitely do want to get to). Another is that as much as I love the Nordics, I felt like a bit of a poseur traveling there in every season except the winter. Scandinavia is easy to love in the summer; I wanted to get a sense of what Nordic daily life is like during the coldest, darkest time of year.
And lastly, flights and hotels were really cheap. Presumably because most people think there are much better places to go in January than Helsinki.
But honestly, it was a great trip. Yes, it’s cold and the days are short, but I had a very good time. Helsinki in winter is underrated. I was prepared for the cold with long thermal underwear, a heavy coat, waterproof boots with good traction, and touchscreen-friendly gloves. Dressed for the elements, walking around the city was pleasant and public transit is accessible.
I’d planned to travel solo but a friend ended up joining. Although hanging out alone in coffee shops is a perfectly good way to spend a vacation in my book, I was glad for the company since Finns are famously reserved. That said, everyone we talked to was friendly. Just perhaps don’t expect them to be the ones to initiate conversation.
We only had a few days in Helsinki, but packed them full enough to pick out some highlights. Some recommendations if you go:
Löyly — This contemporary sauna was a highlight of the trip. Saunas are a must-visit in Finland. This one is all-gender and clothed; from what I’ve read, expectations on mixing genders and nudity vary from sauna to sauna. Löyly is upscale but very reasonably priced, with two on-site saunas, outdoors decks, an indoor fire, and casual food and drink. Most importantly, it’s right on the water, so you can stroll outside for an invigorating cold sea plunge. Not to be missed! Make a reservation as it fills up quickly, and good luck on the pronunciation.
Kultá Kitchen and Bar — This Lappish restaurant was my first meal in Helsinki. They offer multi-course prix fixe dinners, which I’m sure are amazing, but we couldn’t resist ordering the reindeer burger instead. It was honestly one of the best burgers I’ve ever had. I would love to go back for a tasting menu.
Café Esplanad — Korvapuusti, Finnish cinnamon rolls, were at the top of my list of food to seek out in Helsinki. A friend recommended Café Esplanad as her favorite in the city. I didn’t try them anywhere else in town because they were so wonderful here; I’d happily go every morning. Bonus: we were there for fastlagsbulle season, the traditional Fat Tuesday pastry better known as semla in Swedish.
Skiffer — This local chain makes what they call “liuska,” an oblong, very thin crust pizza. We got the surf and turf with chorizo and little shrimp. Paired with hearty salads and a selection of local beers, it’s a great place for a casual meal.
Fisken på Disken — This restaurant on the top floor of a shopping mall is not one we would have found if not for a blog post acclaiming its salmon soup as the best in Helsinki. I’m in no position to compare, but it was deliciously rich with loads of dill and a hint of smoke. Absolutely worth going.
Coffee — Finland is said to boast the world’s highest per capita rate of coffee consumption. We barely scratched the surface of local coffee shops, but we loved Andante. Sprudge has a guide to the local scene.
Bars — Bars weren’t our top priority, but when it’s dark by 5 pm, what are you going to do? We liked Liberty or Death and Runar for cocktails, Juova Hanahuone for Finnish beer, and Beaky Basterd and Bar Llamas for hangouts.
Helsinki Distilling Company — Worth a visit to sample their extensive line of spirits; highlights for me were a rum barrel-aged whiskey, sea buckthorn snaps, and (of course) aquavit. The only downside is that if you want to take a bottle home, you’ll have to track it down at the state monopoly Alco shops. Request to Finland: legalize craft distillers selling directly to consumers!
Amos Rex — Our timing didn’t align with possibilities for many museum visits, but Amos Rex had an outstanding immersive exhibition by Belgian sculptor Hans Op de Beek.
Hattu — My friend lost his hat and so we ended up at this small, charming menswear shop to replace it. A great spot for hats and workwear from brands like Stetson and Pike Brothers.
What else? Definitely take advantage of the ferry to Tallinn, Estonia, easily worth a couple days visit. We didn’t have much time in Tampere but I’ll vouch for the city’s blood sausage. On a future trip I would love to get way up north for an aurora borealis experience, but wasn’t able squeeze it in this time.
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