I have a really fun new feature at Slate digging into some very strange coffees:

The weirdest coffee I’ve ever tasted is one I found at a coffee shop in Portland, Oregon, last fall. Like many coffee enthusiasts, I usually buy beans based on the country of origin or the reputation of the roaster, but that day something different beckoned. It was a bag labeled “watermelon co-ferment” from Quindio, Colombia. “Coffee and watermelon flavors eloquently mingle,” promised the label.

I brought the beans home with no idea of what to expect. I’m used to picking up subtle tasting notes in coffee, a hint of cacao, or even blueberry. This was something else entirely. As soon as I opened the bag, aroma of watermelon erupted forth. In the cup, that flavor dominated every other aspect. This was no hint of fruit. This was hyperreal watermelon, amped up to 11. Drinking this coffee felt closer to sucking on a Jolly Rancher candy than sipping a standard cup of joe. I’d never tasted coffee like this. I wasn’t sure coffee should taste like this.

The piece digs into the intriguing and controversial practice of co-fermentation, fermenting coffee beans alongside other fruits and spices. If you’re a coffee lover, I think you’ll enjoy this one.